Archive for the ‘Mexico’ Category

Day of the Dead

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead

If you’d like to participate in Dia de los Muertos ceremonies, there are several villages in Mexico with colorful celebrations worth attending. Most are in the Central Pacfic Coast states of Guerrero, Michoacan & Jalisco.

This festival honors the lives of dear departed ones with rich cultural traditions.  Planes full of tourists attend annually. This year, airfares to the best festival destinations are between $200 and $400 rountrip from the U.S.

“Dia de los Muertos” is a holiday celebrated primarily in Mexico but also in Hispanic and African communities worldwide. Families honor memories of their departed with music, costumes, festively decorated sugar skulls, and altars to the dead with many candles. Families visit graves to leave the favorite foods and drinks of their departed. Loved ones are celebrated with stories, feasts, dancing, iconic skeletons, and always with good humor.

These ceremonies date back thousands of years and began as a celebration of death as a voyage to a higher plane by the pre-Hispanic Olmecs & Zapotecs. The Aztecs celebrated for an entire month, honoring their goddess of death. The modern celebration occurs on the 1st and 2nd of November, fusing the pre-Hispanic celebration with two Catholic holidays – All Saint’s Day & All Souls’ Day. In Brazil it’s a public holiday and Spain holds parades and festivals.

Send a note for recommendations on the best festivals.  Even you don’t attend, remember the ancestors who influenced your life!

Mexican Pottery Fusion

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009

talaveraThose who visited Mexico in 1989 recall plates, stunningly painted, vividly colored cups, and serving dishes worthy of hanging in galleries.  “Yes, they are affordable, but  you can’t  use them because of lead paint.”  These last two words have discouraged admirers of Mexico’s earthenware.  Lately, such worry is becoming misplaced.

Mexico’s National Fund for the development of Arts & Crafts (Fonart) sponsored research that has inspired a revolution in the kilns of this nation’s potters since 1999.  Rather than using lead, which fuses at low temperatures, most potters are now using boron, also low-temp with an added bonus:  it’s non-toxic.  According to Fonart, “more than half of Mexico’s potters have switched and this segment is now earning four times what lead-based potters were earning a decade ago” ( due to the pricing in export markets).

Mexico’s Talavera ceramics are the oldest tin-glazed ceramics in the Americas, dating from the 1500′s.  At that time, craftsmen from Spain’s Talavera de Reinas were sent to Mexico where local artisans were already producing more detailed ceramic painting.  Spanish monks taught Indians about potter’s wheels and glazes, and the monks learned just as much about an extraordinary culture of decorating pottery.

Today, Mexico sells more Talavera-style pottery than Spain.  Just another lesson the New World has ‘learned’ from the Old World?   Mexico is on its way to abandoning lead-based paint completely.   This act is most important to Mexico’s millions of potters, who now enjoy kilns with exhaust fans to improve performance …in addition to living longer!  It’s pure fusion, this blending of the old and the new.    How can one argue with fusion?

Gracias, Mexico!

Saturday, May 23rd, 2009

mexicoThe winner for this week’s best reporting goes to Laurie Garrett who says, “We should all stand up and scream Gracias, Mexico!” because  the Mexican government sacrificed by shutting down schools, businesses, restaurants, churches, and sporting events to prevent a global pandemic.  “They basically paralyzed their own economy.  They’ve suffered billions of dollars in financial losses, and thereby brought transmission of this virus to a halt.”  Bravo, Laurie!

Daily, the moronic media has seen reporters standing at a border crossing talking about a country they have never visited and know nothing about.  Remember the avian flu?  China did not swiftly quarantine the source, as Mexico did, so there were far more than the swine flu’s 61 deaths.  Gracias, Mexico!   (By the way, why is the USA so cozy with socialist China while Cuba is off limits because it’s socialist?  Why can’t the U.S. government pass the common sense test?)

How about the misleading drug violence reporting?  Mainstream media have bungled this story as well.  If you are dealing drugs or hanging out along the border you might encounter violence, but the same is true everywhere in the world.  Ready for the real story?  Mexico is more peaceful than the USA in terms of drug-related gang violence.   Three times safer; 15,000 gang-related deaths occur in the USA each year.  Gang-related deaths in Mexico doubled from 2,500 in 2007 to 5,000 last year, when President Bush bribed President Calderon with $400 million in law enforcement aid to initiate armed violence with smugglers in the DEA’s tragic waste of money, “the war on drugs”.  It’s amazing how the media leave out essential facts such as these.  Sloppy research leads to biased reporting.  One casualty of sloppy reporting (and Bush’s sloppy policies) is Mexico’s tourism industry, to the tune of billions of dollars.

Despite such follies, Mexico’s economy is holding up admiraly under the strain of the world recession – another problem made in the USA.  Workers have been laid off in Mexican car factories recently, but this is the first taste of the financial crisis.  The IMF forecast is for a short and moderate drop in GDP for most Latin American economies, including Mexico.  Latin America maintains a current-account surplus and accumulated reserves, unlike Uncle Sam’s financial sector and government which has behaved more like a casino for a decade now.  (Actually, that statement is not fair to casinos; most generate a budget surplus.)

In summary, Mexico is safe, strong, and waiting with welcome arms for summer vacationers.  Remember, your holiday dollars go a long way in this warm and welcome culture.  And Mexico deserves the world’s gratitude for its incredible response to a medical emergency this spring.  Gracias, Mexico!  See you soon…

Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos

Sunday, May 10th, 2009
Mural from Todos Santos, Baja California Sur

Mural from Todos Santos, Baja California Sur

A Pueblo Mágico is a place where “symbolism, legend, history, important events and day-to-day life” have collided to create a unique result. “They are magic in their social and cultural manifestations, with great opportunities for tourism.” This is a good description from Mexico’s tourism agency, which is more than can be said about SECTUR’s website. Some things are the same everywhere. One constant is that government websites are not the most useful.

 

Especially if you are new to Mexico, tune into this program as you explore this dynamic and beautiful country. Not for the program itself; it is true… there are magical villages in Mexico. This travel journal presents the highlights of this program and its best destinations.

 

This program has resulted in substantial investment in most of its 34 designated gems since its inception in 2001, mainly in the areas of restoration and preservation. The most magical pueblos had already been inducted by 2006 when representatives from the earlier pueblos began to complain that the program was becoming less magical. By 2008 the program ended. The 14 pueblos selected in the last three years are not included here.

 

The first 20 Pueblos Mágicos are introduced below, presented in order of admission into the program. Travelers will notice an evolution from early inclusion based mainly on historical importance to pueblos with more contemporary social and cultural attributes.

 

Pueblos Mágicos

 

Mexcaltitán is a tiny island off the coast of Nayarit, rumored to be the birthplace of the Aztecs. The island is man-made, not tourist friendly, but important for cultural anthropologists.

 

Huasca de Ocampo is a beautiful village near one of Mexico’s highest cities, Pachuca, Hidalgo. It has more natural beauty than it has tourists, which is a plus in my book. It is a stunning visual feast due to a picturesque lake and biosphere reserve.

 

Real de Catorce is magical in more ways than one. This former silver mining town in San Luis Potosi is sublime. It attracts pilgrims from all over the world due to its architectural integrity and its history with rite-of-passage rituals involving peyote.

 

Tepoztlán is a mystical center and home to fabulous artisan markets. The setting in the mountains of Morelos makes it a popular destination. The town is as charming and it’s a great escape from Mexico City.

 

Taxco is Mexico’s famous source for silver jewelry. It’s perched on a Guerrero mountainside with cobblestone streets, magnificent colonial architecture, history, art, and very good tourist services.

 

Tepotzotlán is not the same pueblo as Tepoztlán above. This was a Jesuit center with an elaborate system of aqueducts. If you enjoy Christian history such as old convents and temples, you will enjoy this pleasant city in the state of Mexico.

 

Tapalpa is one of four Pueblos Mágicos in the state of Jalisco. It is a beautiful and peaceful rural sanctuary. The natural landscape surrounding this unspoiled alpine puebla features forest streams, and lakes resting in the shadows of volcanoes.

 

Comala is in Colima. Like Tapalpa, it has red tile roofs and stone streets. It is unusual in two respects. Most every building is whitewashed, and its cantinas feature substantial food, complements of the house. Fine craftsmen live here, and they are well fed.

 

Pátzcuaro is a stone city high in the mountains in Michoacan. It is bordered by pines and a beautiful lake. It is home to fisherman and craftsmen. Visit the island of Janitzio and watch the old men dance in the plaza.

 

Dolores Hidalgo is home to the Talavera ceramics famous throughout Mexico (and much of the world) and to more ice cream flavors than any place in Mexico. This town is the cradle of Mexican independence.

 

San Miguel de Allende is a favorite pueblo for expats including 10,000 from the USA alone. It all started with WWII vets attending art school on the GI Bill. Beautiful architecture and hot springs continue to inspire artists and retirees.

 

Cuetzalán in Puebla has a unique feel to it. It is isolated and rustic with red tile roofs, cobblestone streets and a glorious hillside setting. There is a waterfall and pyramids in the jungle outside town. This is a quintessential Mexican village with two fine hotels.

 

Izamal is a tiny yellow town in Yucatán state. Mayan buildings include a pyramid to a Sun God that is 2 acres at its base. This large Mayan city introduced unique architectural features such as carved stone blocks with rounded corners and projected moldings, built 750BC – 750AD.

 

Tequila is a delightful pueblo fueled by the drink of the same name. Dozens of distilleries operate tasting rooms, the central plaza is alive with music and revelers, and excellent food and lodging abounds. Its home, Jalisco, has more Pueblos Mágicos than any other state.

 

San Cristóbal de las Casas is a large city at 7000’ in Chiapas surrounded by wetlands and neighbor to the Mayan jewel Palenque. It is surrounded by lagoons, lakes, and canyons and Mayan villages. Its architectural styles are rich and varied colonial, baroque, & neoclassical.

 

Real del Monte is a mining boom town in Hidalgo where gold and silver were discovered before the Spanish Conquest. Cornish miners greatly influenced building styles and introduced futbol/soccer to Mexico. Charmingly narrow streets and stairways are well preserved.

 

Parras de la Fuente is two hours from Coahuila’s capital, Saltillo. It is home to the America’s first vineyard (1593) and many others. There are orchards of walnut, pecan, avocado, and fig. Spring-fed pools provide feed several resorts. The climate is ideal for agriculture.

 

Valle de Bravo is on Lake Avandaro where artists and cafes line the boardwalk. Visitors hire boats from the dock, paraglide, golf, or take horseback rides. Valle de Bravo is home to an amazing Day of the Dead celebration, the Festival of Souls.

 

Mazamitla is a 12th century village in Jalisco near the mountainous border with Michoacan. Here travelers find cabins in the woods, a Norwegian center, excellent restaurants, a quaint town center, Japanese gardens with waterfalls, and many other pleasant surprises.

 

Alamos is Sonora’s silver boom town and one-time capital. It is home to an impeccable town surrounding one the best town centers in Mexico, cobblestone streets, excellent dining and lodging. There is an ecological reserve outside of town. Alamos is popular with birders.

Monte Xanic in Mexico’s Napa Valley

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

Visiting Monte Xanic is a treat. No wine enthusiast visiting Baja California should miss this 200 acre vineyard in the Guadalupe Valley located 1300 feet above Ensenada, 10 miles from the Pacific coast. It is located near the town of Francisco Zarco. Here you will find amazing cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petite verdot, and syrah blends and varietals. There are also white wines. The sauvignon blanc is good, but the reds are world class.

This peninsula’s soil is dry. The sea breeze provides the moisture grapes seek. Such a stark contrast creates rugged and versatile reds with a character unique to the region. Here the growing conditions require that volume be sacrificed for quality. “Each vine is pruned to yield a limited number of grapes, but each one of these has a high concentration of flavors and aromas which will be revealed in the wine”, states Monte Xanic’s Karola Saenger.

The valleys of Baja California produce the vast majority of Mexico’s wines. Baja’s first vines were planted in 1701 by a Jesuit missionary assigned to the Loreto mission. In 1834 Dominican friars founded the Mission of Our Lady of Guadalupe of the North, which gave the valley its name.

Monte Xanic’s first vines were planted after 1904 by a Russian religious sect called “molokans” when 100 pacifist families settled here to avoid being drafted into the Czar’s armies. They produced wine in the Guadalupe Valley for eight decades before five wine enthusiasts founded Monte Xanic in 1987. The name Monte Xanic arose while contemplating the vineyards from the peak of the property during springtime. Monte is the Spanish word for hill and Xanic is a Cora Indian word describing “the flower that blooms after the first rains”.

The current winemaker and a co-partner is Hans Backhoff. Monte Xanic produces low volume and high quality, 50,000 cases of wine annually under four labels: Monte Xanic , Calixa Gran Ricardo, Vina Kristel and Calixa. There are other vineyards in Guadalupe Valley but Monte Xanic is the heart of Mexico’s Napa Valley. Prices typically range around US$30 but these are unforgettable wines.

This winery’s philosophy is to spare no expense in applying the best technology to the vineyards to obtain the highest quality possible in their wines. Monte Xanic does not seek to imitate wines from other regions; it seeks to express the personality of the vineyard, its “terra noir” – the characteristics imparted by the soil and climate of the region. These wines are excellent with Mexican food.

Gran Ricardo de Monte Xanic is one of the vineyard’s best, priced from $50. It is an earthy Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, and malbec aged in new French oak for twenty-four months and another two-to- four years in the bottle. This blend is produced in honor of Richard Hojel, founder and partner of Monte Xanic.

Surf Camps in Baja – Surfer’s Paradise

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

Two of Baja’s best surf breaks are one hour north of Cabo San Lucas. Intermediate & beginner surf camps are offered at both beaches and expert surfers are always here …for inspiration.

Playa Los Cerritos is a beautiful, sweeping expanse of pristine beach just south of the farming community of Pescadero. There is a great beach club at Cerritos.

Playa San Pedrito was formerly called Playa El Estero. Its surfing beach is called El Pescadero after the fishing village nearby.

In between these two popular surf spots, a friend rents out his vacation home – Oasis Pescadero – a charming zen casita not too far from the Pescadero Surf Camp. This area is a surfer’s paradise. Oasis Pescadero is located 6 miles south of the artists colony of Todos Santos, one of Mexico’s “Pueblos Magicos”. Here you’ll find groceries and internet cafe’s.
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The house sits 1km from the beach, in a peaceful and contemplative desert landscape. Take the virtual tour of Oasis Pescadero and contact Rodrigo to book your stay – tell him Mango Steve sent you!

Guanajuato’s Cervantino Festival: Oct. 2009

Monday, March 23rd, 2009


Guanajuato is Mexico’s most charming small city. It is European in its layout and architecture, with dozens of plazas connected by pedestrian walkways. Cafés spill out into vibrant streets and plazas. There is always music in the air. At night, student choir groups wander with guitars and serenade people of all ages, who are dining, sharing a park bench, or strolling while holding hands. Guanajuato is a very romantic city.

Everywhere there are staircases leading to colorful residences. The children are laughing, genuinely happy. Near the plazas, produce stands offer fresh fuits and artisans show their crafts. The climate is, like the city, enchanting. You’ll find art galleries and boutiques along hundreds of alleyways. Guanajuato has something for everyone. It’s the perfect place to take a Spanish Immersion Course.

The best time to visit Guanajuato is during the Cervantino Festival, named in honor of Cervantes, author of ‘Don Quixote’. 2009’s celebration of music and the arts will be Oct 14. – Nov. 2. Ask us to plan your journey now; every room will be booked by summer. People travel from all over the world to Guanajuato every October. One visit and you’ll know why!

Legend of Tequila & The Finest Blue Agave Nectar

Saturday, March 21st, 2009

In the village of Magdalena, Jalisco, Mexico, “El Caudillo” is produced by Cooperativa Tequilera la Magdalena S.C. de R.L.

“El Caudillo” translates from Spanish as “the chief”. El Caudillo is an ultra premium tequila double distilled then carefully aged in white oak barrels previously used for maturing bourbon, imparting a complex golden color and oak flavor, before being bottled. Hail to the chief!

Other brands produced and bottled by this cooperative include Sangre Azteca and Pueblo Mágico. The town of Tequila is a “Pueblo Mágico”, meaning “Magical Village”, a place with symbolism, legends, and history according to Mexico’s tourism agency. There are three other Pueblos Mágicos in Jalisco. Visit them all. Book a flight into Guadalajara; board the tequila train; go to Magdalena. This village’s amazing tequilia cooperative does not export its spirits to the USA or Canada … yet. Look for this to change in 2009.

If you research Magdalena on http://www.tequila.net/, you may be misled that “the name Magdalena is Xochitepec, which means the place next to the hill of flowers.” This is not true. Magdalena is a Spanish version of the Hebrew name “Magdalene” found in many languages. “Xochitepec” comes from the Nahuatl language and means “on the hill of flowers”. The town of Xochitepec is 300 miles away, near Cuernavaca, and has little to do with Magdalena, except they both have hills with flowers.

Let’s get back to tequila. The region surrounding the village of Tequila in Jalisco, Mexico is the only place where tequila is produced, as champagne comes only from the province of Champagne, France. Magdalena is just minutes from the magical village of Tequila. This is the place where the finest blue agave is harvested for El Caudillo. Magdalena’s volcanic soil has produced the finest agave in Jalisco since this succulent plant was commercialized around 1600, when the first tequila distillery was established. In 1621 the oldest recorded description of tequila was insightful: “wine clearer than water, but strong as liquor” (from Nueva Galicia’s Domingo Lázaro).

This early description refers to blanco, silver tequila, tequila that was not aged in wood. Purists insist blue agave suffers from wood flavor. Others argue the opposite, that reposado, gold tequila, is the finest. This argument will never be settled. Why should it be? With a cigar, reposado añejo is sublime. With food, a fine blanco is divine. Why argue?

The favorite tequilas according to a poll of 3,402 aficionados in the USA: 1) Patron; 2) Don Juilo; and, 3) Don Valente. El Caudillo is better than all three according to aficionados in Mexico, where they know tequila better than the average gringo. El Caudillo was not included in the poll, because it is not yet available in the U.S. The history of tequila in Mexico is rich and fascinating. The origin of the blue agave begins with Aztecs deities. Aztecs fermented agave long before the Spanish arrived.

The goddess of agave is Mayahuel, the young and beautiful Aztec woman who gave birth to the first blue agave. She left home to marry Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec god of redemption. Both of them turned into two branches of a leafy tree so they would not be found by their terrible grandmother, who according to legend, ordered their execution. Quetzalcoatl lived, but Mayahuel died. In the place where she was buried, the first agave plant grew. It was struck by a lightning bolt from a great storm sent by the enraged gods. A fire started.

From beneath the thorny leafs emerged a seductive nectar from the heart of first agave. This is why fine tequila provides a mystical experience. To drink “Sangre Azteca” is to drink from the plant nourished by “Aztec blood”. To taste “El Caudillo” is to taste the nectar of the Aztec goddess Mayahuel, bride of the god of redemption. Her revolutionary spirit inspired blue agave and rebels such as Pancho Villa, Emiliano Zapata, and others.
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Today, the spirit of the Aztec goddess continues to grow in the hills of Magdalena, the Pueblo Mágico of Tequila in the highlands of Jalisco.

Baja Sur has Todos Santos at its Heart

Saturday, February 14th, 2009

Baja California Sur has the lowest population density of any state in Mexico with one-half million residents. The history of tourism in Baja Sur dates back to 1948, when wealthy American actors like John Wayne and Bing Crosby built the first resort on the Sea of Cortez, south of La Paz. Other luxury resorts followed until the highway from San Diego was finished in 1973, opening the door for automobile tourists. Today there is something for everyone in Baja Sur, especially fresh fish, fruits and vegetables.

Large scale farming on this arid peninsula dates back to the 1950’s when cotton was the main crop. One of the oldest export farms in Baja Sur is in San Juan de los Planes. This valley, “Valle de los Planes” is home to an asparagus farm in San Juan de Los Planes, near the first resort. It was founded by Guido Natali of Italy, who came to the area in 1958 to train local farmers for the Agricola San Vicente company. Near Valle de los Planes are the beaches of El Sargento and La Ventana where wind surfers and kite surfers enjoy the waves and strong winds. There are also estuaries with perfect beaches and warm, shallow water for swimming with small children.

Across the peninsula on the Pacific Ocean you can swim with the whales at Lopez Mateos. Whales can be seen breaching the waters just off both coasts. In the center of the Baja peninsula, the Sierra la Laguna mountain range forms a Biosphere Reserve which feeds surrounding agricultural valleys and tourism developments with fresh water. This Biosphere is the largest protected area in Mexico and one of the largest in Latin America. Its mountains are forested with pine and oak woods, with oases of palms. Its villages present excellent opportunities for hiking and birding, or just escaping the desert heat.

On the southern tip of the peninsula you’ll find Los Cabos, where Sammy Hagar built his Cabo Wabo nightclub and restaurant. Decades later, celebrities still flock to Baja. The main tourist areas are Los Cabos and La Paz. Between the two lies the charming artist colony of Todos Santos, on the Pacific Ocean. This is the best place to stay to be ‘in the center of it all’ while enjoying the “onda” (vibe) of authentic Mexico. This halfway point in one hour from either of the two main tourist areas. Todos Santos is home to orchards and organic farms in the shadow of the Sierra la Laguna Biosphere. These add pastoral views to this unique coastal village, like the one pictured above.

Todos Santos is home to 6000 artists, expats, and locals. The rich and varied agricultural communities between Todos Santos and La Paz produce citrus, mangos, chile peppers, herbs, corn, chick-pea, melons, tomato, papaya and asparagus – to name the most visible crops. Still, the peninsula is most famous as a surfing and deep sea fishing paradise. Everyone here enjoys fresh fish, fruits and vegetables daily.

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Posted from Cafelix, Todos Santos, Baja Sur

Organic in Mexico

Friday, February 6th, 2009

Worldwide, 77 million acres of land are certified organic. In Italy and many northern European countries, organic land represents roughly one-quarter of total farm land. (Source: IFOAM) On Feb. 20 Helga Willer of FiBL will present the latest figures on organic farming worldwide at the BioFach Congress 2009 in Germany.

In Latin America, Uruguay has the highest percentage of organic farm land – much of it in urban areas. Even their wool is certified organic. But Uruguay is not close enough to the USA to maintain a low carbon footprint for agricultural exports. Organic consumers are very interested in regionally produced foods.

This week I am visiting organic farmers in Mexico to discuss organizing a program to lift awareness among U.S. retailers regarding “Organic in Mexico”. Many organic exporters are close to large population centers in the USA. Climate, soil, and affordable farm labor are factors favorable to organic farmers south of the border. Virtually all of Mexico’s certified organics are exported.

In many areas of northern Mexico, certification is a fast track process because inspectors find zero residual fertilizer and insecticide levels in the soil. The reason is simple – farmers haven’t the money to spend on chemicals for their crops.

In 2000 Mexico placed 16th in the world and fifth in Latin America for organic land under production. Unfortunately, Argentina’s 3 million hectares certified organic includes unmanaged range land, so the statistic is misleading. “The value of organic production in 2000 was $150 million from Mexico, five times greater than Argentina’s, which puts Mexico second only to Brazil in total value of organic production in Latin America”, according to agriculture researcher Don Lotter from Davis, California.

Mexico’s domestic demand is still small; however, the value of organic production in Mexico is expanding at twice the rate of the USA’s. Coffee is Mexico’s largest organic crop. For organic coffee from Mexico, fresh roasted the day you order it, visit www.uniquecoffee.com – Seth Appell has been importing organic coffee for decades. Buying organic coffee from Latin America helps small rural growers more than most foods you can buy. “Over 50,000 small farmers, with an average holding of 2 hectares produce over two-thirds of organic production value in Mexico. Since it is far beyond the abilities of a producer of that size to seek individual certification, certification is done by farmer groups and cooperatives”, states Lotter.

I’ll be following in Mr. Lotter’s footsteps as I travel to Baja California to meet with growers this week. I’ll post field notes next week. I highly recommend Don’s field notes from 2004 focused on Del Cabo Cooperative, a 300-family project from our neighbor’s organic gardens to our community markets.