The road less traveled

Everyone knows you get what you pay for.   The problem is not knowing  you paid for what you got.

Retirees considering living abroad often begin their search with realtors or organizations paid to sell certain information, developments, or areas.  While those services have their place, retirees are best served by learning an area organically, by experiencing it as an informed visitor, through a network of friends that includes locals and expats … before realtors or developers.

Changes In Latitude invites you to skip the conferences and tours guided by the hope for a commission.  Explore one of Latin America’s most amazing communities undercover as our guest. Meet locals. Stay in little-known countryside destinations instead of mega-resorts hosting conferences.

We live in C. America and know the region well.  We also know many retirees who have returned home after living here. We have watched too many jump-in as expats on the wrong foot based on hype.  We enjoy sharing our community… the good, the bad and the ugly.

Changes In Latitude has no agenda other than introducing retirees to the local lifestyle gently. Our role is simple, we are travel consultants who love making new friends, cooking for our guests, and helping others take “the road less traveled”.  Our fees are upfront and depend on your itinerary as we provide both guide services and self-guided itineraries. Often we provide a combination of both.

We never accept commissions, not even from hotels or airlines. We never accept incentive payments of any kind. We do not represent a single development. Check our website and click on “acclaim” for our references.

Recent retirement tour groups have ranged in size from six to as little as one.  For more information, write: info@ChangesInLatitude.org or call (507) 6966.2691.

Ngobe Bugle Girl in El Salto

Amistad International Park is in C. America’s Talamanca Mountains. Amistad is home to the largest virgin forest remaining in C. America. Amistad is a fitting name since it straddles the Costa Rica – Panama border and Amistad is Spanish for “friendship”. The park is home to stunning biodiversity with the following species counts: 600 bird species, 250 amphibians and reptiles 180 endemic plants, 115 fish, and 215 species of mammals including cats such as Jaguars, Ocelots, and Pumas.

Human habitation in Amistad dates back 12,000 years according to pre-ceramic sites discovered near Volcan Baru in Chiriqui, Panama. According to UNESCO, “such sites are extremely rare in C. America and represent some of C. America’s earliest human inhabitants”.  About early inhabitants on the Costa Rica side of the park, UNESCO notes that “skillfully created elaborate gold ornaments, jewelry, and huge symmetrical stone spheres are the most outstanding evidence of the cultural development of pre-Colombian man over the last 3,000 years”.

UNESCO speaks of the indigenous Teribe residing in Amistad. However, my visits to Amistad’s Rio Teribe in 2007 revealed a tribe calling itself the Naso, a monarchy governed by a King.  The Spanish likely called the tribe by the name of the river ‘Teribe’ which runs through the 7 Naso villages.  The Naso are small tribe of 3,500 people living in villages connected by footpaths. The river provides for the primary traffic route to the Caribbean coast.  Naso use rafts to trade fruit such as cacao in Bocas del Toro for the few items they do not produce in the rainforest themselves, such as machetes.  I had the pleasure of meeting a university professor who has recently launched an eco-lodge to help the Naso capitalize on adventure tourism opportunities. It is called Wekso.

There are much smaller tribes that live in or near Amistad, such as the Bribri, Boruca, and Cabesar. All the Talamanca peoples maintain their ancient folklore, customs, agricultural and hunter/gatherer traditions.   They also maintain their languages which are now supplemented with Spanish. By far the largest indigenous tribe is the Guaymi, which is a bit of a misnomer created by the Spanish who called many tribes Guaymi, such as the Ngobe and the tiny Bugle tribe. The Ngobe are the most populous indigenous tribe in the region with 200,000 members in Costa Rica and Panama. ‘Guaymi’ is based on the Buglere term for the Ngobe, which was ‘Guaymiri’, shortened by the Spanish.

The Spanish found three distinct tribes which they called Guaymi. At that time each tribe was known by the name of its current chief and each spoke a different language. The chiefs were Nata, Parita, and Urraca. Urraca is famous for never having been conquered by the Spanish who tried too many times and grew to fear all “Guaymi” because they didn’t learn to distinguish the tribes.  Urraca forced Spanish Captian Diego de Albitez to sign a peace treaty in 1522. Urraca was later betrayed by his successor and captured by the Spanish, but he escaped and died a free man and legendary figure.

In 1997 the descendents of the blended ‘Guaymi’ tribes, calling themselves Ngobe-Bugle, joined forces to obtain a Comarca (autonomous lands) that comprises roughly 10% of Panama’s land area. Many Ngobe-Bugle live outside their Comarca near Amistad around the Chiriqui-Bocas del Toro-Costa Rica borders.  In Costa Rica and a few places in Panama they still use the name Guaymi.  I have the privilege of serving as an English tutor to a young Ngobe woman attending university in Chiriqui. Many of her tribe’s women speak very little Spanish and no English; the men speak Spanish for work and use their native tongues at home.  Women wear brightly colored traditional handmade dresses called naguas and men wear trousers and, often, shirts made from manta-sucia.

This is a warm and friendly culture, cohesive and unchanged by modern neighbors with whom they co-exist peacefully.  The dominant Hispanic culture tends to be a bit cynical regarding the indigenous, perhaps because they live apart from the mainstream culture.  The growing European and N. American expatriate cultures near Amistad tend to view the indigenous with fascination.  Many indigenous peoples migrate to pick coffee for half the year and live on the Comarca for the balance of the year. Others manage coffee farms or other fincas year round. If you drink coffee in this region, you are certainly benefiting from the efforts of its indigenous peoples.

Las Lajas Beach Resort has a sublime location, good facilities, and peaceful vistas in every direction.

This delightful little hotel has 12 rooms and a suite. The restaurant and bar are wonderful.  The food is delicious. The management and staff are warm and attentive. Lize de Garcia hails from Amsterdam and her husband, Gama Garcia Carrera, is from Panama.

Together they run Cocaleca Tours providing activities such  nature hikes, horeseback riding, Guaymi culture tours, boat tours, and rental of equipment for the beach.  Lize recommends the hills behind the mangrove for those who are comfortable on horses.  It is one of her favorites.  The Guaymi visit takes you to an indigenous family’s home with a waterfall behind the house that provides a swimming hole.  Lize recommends the Guaymi tour “because of its pureness and the women are so happy to have a possibility to sell their handy crafts”  (indigenous dresses, handmade bags, hats).

Access is by a very good road from San Felix, just two hours from Boquete.  The beach slopes very gently; you can walk on soft sand for a long time before its time to swim.  The beach runs for 22 kms and provides views of islands, many sea birds, and sweet waves.  The beauty here has not been trampled by crowds, mega resorts, or the over development common on beaches closer to Panama City.

This resort is owned by Peter McNamee and Scot Arnolds from San Francisco, where they run a pizza business. Susan & Jonathon are your contacts in reception.  In the bar and restaurant you’ll be taken good care of by Julio, Reinaldo, Jorge & Tracy.

A serene setting is created by low tide leaving 500 meters of beach, one of the largest pure sand beaches in Panama. There is very little undertow so this beach is perfect for children riding boogie boards. This tranquil hideaway is a must for visitors to Chiriqui. There are many hammocks to choose from. Bring a good book, grab a fruity cocktail, and listen to bird songs in paradise.