Panama on your left, Costa Rica on your right.

The border between Panama and Costa Rica is very appealing, as borders go, an example of how neighbors can coexist with dignity, peace, and brotherhood. There are no fences, hi-tech surveillance equipment, or gates to herd people into lines. Driving down a dirt road toward Puerto Armuelles, turning left takes you into a Panamanian driveway while turning right allows you access to a Costa Rican driveway. It’s that simple.

When it’s time to officially exit one country for the other, passports can be presented at the appropriate immigration desks for processing. The Paso Canoas crossing is amidst a free trade zone.  Visitors amble back and forth shopping, dining, and visiting friends and families without having to present any identification, unless planning to go into the interior.

When headed to the interior, first-time visitors have to look to find the proper immigration desk, because they are not situated in a linear this side/that side fashion.  This is so refreshing compared to the US-Mexico border, which is uncivilized to the point of being hostile.  You can actually process out of Panama, stop for tacos and pick up some supplies in town, and then process into Costa Rica, or vice versa.  The town is united, not divided.

The town of Paso Canoas is not much too look at. It is more like a Wild West town.  However, the people are friendly and there is good food and decent lodging. Everyone accepts U.S. dollars and Panamanian merchants accept Colónes.

There is another border crossing at Sixaola and Guabito which is also wild, an off-the-beaten track border post that mostly sees visitors to and from International Park Amistad.  Amistad is Spanish for friendship and the park, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, is in both Panama and Costa Rica.  A bridge facilitates the crossing.  Here again, formalities are relaxed but there are limited hours, few stores and bars, and no lodging or dining options.

To experience the Osa Peninsula’s incredible biodiversity, you’ll fly to Puerto Jimenez from San Jose or drive five hours out of Boquete, Panama and boat across Golfo Dulce after a border crossing right out of the ‘wild west’.  Deep sea fishing enthusiasts will want to stay more than one night in the port.  There are also excellent surfing and birding opportunities from this hub.

When you are ready to leave civilization, you’ll enjoy a two hour drive on dirt roads from the port to Carate, crossing several large rivers.  After this road, you’ll be ready for the 45 minute hike along a pristine beach bordered by tropical jungles to reach a comfortable eco-lodge with excellent food.  Your bags will follow by pony cart.  Here you are in paradise.

When you are ready to hike into the national park, it is important to time the tides.  It is six hours to the first ranger station and your biologist guide will point out animals, plants, and native burial grounds.  You’ll drink fresh coconut milk, enjoy crustaceans, and maybe even have fresh cacao for dessert.  You’ll see thousands of phyto-geographically unique plants, rare insects, and a stunning population of birds, mammals, reptiles, and marine life.

You’ll sleep at the ranger’s station (tents or dorms) and share meals unless you packed your own grub.  Now you have many exciting options.  You can explore the surrounding areas looking for tapirs, monkeys, scarlet macaws, crocodiles, anteaters, and snakes.  You can rest up for a night hike to see the jungle’s nocturnal side.  You can hike to the next ranger station for more camping, indigenous villages, and a different return route.   Or, you can return the way you came via the eco lodge.

The Osa has something for everyone’s thirst for adventure.  We recommend a week and will arrange for more or less comfort depending on how much wilderness you seek to explore.  This is an unforgettable journey with authentic jungle experiences within reach of all types of travelers.

Coffee is integral to the culture of highland Central America.  Boquete, Chiriqui, near the Costa Rican border, is the Napa Valley of coffee, with over 20 local labels, tasting rooms, and finca tours.  Coffee aficionados from www.UniqueCoffee.com will be travelling to Boquete in Feburary.  In the meantime, notes from Roaster Seth Appell’s most recent visit to C. America are worth sharing…

“In a noble social experiment, the country of Costa Rica shunned the expense of a national army, investing instead in the building of schools and hospitals, providing low-cost education and healthcare for the general population. Rather than following the colonial model of large tracts of farmland owned by the wealthy minority, agricultural centers were built upon a cooperative model, providing coffee plants, education and materials at cost or free for anyone with even the smallest amount of arable land.

Spend a day with the members of CoopePalmares, and you quickly begin to understand the wealth and freedom of this country that values its families, heritage, and the skills necessary to produce truly fine coffee.

In the center of every coffee field is a home. Each proud farmer we met was born in the center of his own two or three acre coffee field. A man can tend two or three acres of coffee trees with his own hands. For 365 days a year, a farmer cultivates his tree’s, cleans the soil of weeds, and prepares for a harvest that returns a meager third of his income. 250 coffee trees produces that two sacks, or 300 pounds of coffee. And yet with this he sends his children to college. At harvest time the entire country returns to its roots. Children come home from school, and families reunite to harvest coffee across the country.

It is a fact that during my entire stay, I never met a man working at any job whose family was not involved in the coffee back home. It’s a simple fact of life that coffee provides only a portion of the income necessary for a good life, and indeed Costa Rica is a country with a comfortable middle-class. The spirit of “Pura Vida”, the pure life, is the spirit of the Costa Rican people.”

Coffee pickers from the indigenous Ngöbe are beginning to return from Costa Rica to their native Panama.  They have been helping with the larger cooperative’s harvests.  It is encouraging to realize how Panama respects its indigenous peoples.  The atlas reveals that Panama’s population is comprised of 8.4% indigenous peoples.  This atlas has a page for each tribe’s land area (Comarca).  Quick arithmetic reveals that Panama has reserved 20% of its land for its first Americans.  Panama’s Comarca’s are not marginal lands; but prime property.  This is tangible respect.

I recently had the joy of meeting Dra. Maria Ruiz of Boquete’s Casa Ruiz.  We discussed coffee and philosophy.  I was mesmerized by Dra. Ruiz’s perspective on the subject of creating peace within a community.  “Peace results when people respect (and feel respected by) their neighbors”.   Respect is a reoccurring theme this week.

This theme reminds me of a recent journey to meet the people of Latin America’s last kingdom, the Naso.  The Naso Comarca is on Panama’s Rio Teribe, where villagers live in harmony with the land, off the grid, growing almost everything they need to thrive gracefully in concert with Mother Earth, including coffee and cacao for chocolate.  The Naso raft down river to trade surplus crops for grains and other incidentals.  My children couldn’t believe how happy the Naso children are without electronic diversions.

Unlike the Naso, many Ngöbe live outside of their Comarcas.  Like Costa Rica, entire families are involved in harvest coffee.  Unlike Costa Rica, many farms are too large to be owner tended, and the Ngöbe people tend the crops year round, living on the fincas.  Others follow harvests and return to their Comarca for the balance of the year.  The return of the harvesters is an exciting time in Boquete and, for several months each year, the entire pueblo revolves around coffee, festivals, and the holidays.

For information on an upscale tour of this area and some of its finer cafes, fincas, and many rainforest adventures, check out our Coffee Culture Tour link.

The home of Glenn & Teri Jampol is many things. It is a gourmet bistro bar. It is a boutique hotel, the best near San Jose. It is a coffee plantation. It is tropical gardens with foot paths and fruit orchards. It is a luxurious spa. It is Finca Rosa Blanca, the first hotel in Costa Rica to win a 100% sustainability rating.

To learn more about this spectacular hideaway in Santa Bárbara, Heredia, visit http://www.fincarosablanca.com/ Plan on staying awhile. You will not want to leave. Check out the inn’s list of activites before you go. Make sure you plan dinner outside at sunset. The views overlooking the valley are breathtaking.