Posts Tagged ‘Mexico’

Day of the Dead

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead

If you’d like to participate in Dia de los Muertos ceremonies, there are several villages in Mexico with colorful celebrations worth attending. Most are in the Central Pacfic Coast states of Guerrero, Michoacan & Jalisco.

This festival honors the lives of dear departed ones with rich cultural traditions.  Planes full of tourists attend annually. This year, airfares to the best festival destinations are between $200 and $400 rountrip from the U.S.

“Dia de los Muertos” is a holiday celebrated primarily in Mexico but also in Hispanic and African communities worldwide. Families honor memories of their departed with music, costumes, festively decorated sugar skulls, and altars to the dead with many candles. Families visit graves to leave the favorite foods and drinks of their departed. Loved ones are celebrated with stories, feasts, dancing, iconic skeletons, and always with good humor.

These ceremonies date back thousands of years and began as a celebration of death as a voyage to a higher plane by the pre-Hispanic Olmecs & Zapotecs. The Aztecs celebrated for an entire month, honoring their goddess of death. The modern celebration occurs on the 1st and 2nd of November, fusing the pre-Hispanic celebration with two Catholic holidays – All Saint’s Day & All Souls’ Day. In Brazil it’s a public holiday and Spain holds parades and festivals.

Send a note for recommendations on the best festivals.  Even you don’t attend, remember the ancestors who influenced your life!

Mexican Pottery Fusion

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009

talaveraThose who visited Mexico in 1989 recall plates, stunningly painted, vividly colored cups, and serving dishes worthy of hanging in galleries.  “Yes, they are affordable, but  you can’t  use them because of lead paint.”  These last two words have discouraged admirers of Mexico’s earthenware.  Lately, such worry is becoming misplaced.

Mexico’s National Fund for the development of Arts & Crafts (Fonart) sponsored research that has inspired a revolution in the kilns of this nation’s potters since 1999.  Rather than using lead, which fuses at low temperatures, most potters are now using boron, also low-temp with an added bonus:  it’s non-toxic.  According to Fonart, “more than half of Mexico’s potters have switched and this segment is now earning four times what lead-based potters were earning a decade ago” ( due to the pricing in export markets).

Mexico’s Talavera ceramics are the oldest tin-glazed ceramics in the Americas, dating from the 1500′s.  At that time, craftsmen from Spain’s Talavera de Reinas were sent to Mexico where local artisans were already producing more detailed ceramic painting.  Spanish monks taught Indians about potter’s wheels and glazes, and the monks learned just as much about an extraordinary culture of decorating pottery.

Today, Mexico sells more Talavera-style pottery than Spain.  Just another lesson the New World has ‘learned’ from the Old World?   Mexico is on its way to abandoning lead-based paint completely.   This act is most important to Mexico’s millions of potters, who now enjoy kilns with exhaust fans to improve performance …in addition to living longer!  It’s pure fusion, this blending of the old and the new.    How can one argue with fusion?

Gracias, Mexico!

Saturday, May 23rd, 2009

mexicoThe winner for this week’s best reporting goes to Laurie Garrett who says, “We should all stand up and scream Gracias, Mexico!” because  the Mexican government sacrificed by shutting down schools, businesses, restaurants, churches, and sporting events to prevent a global pandemic.  “They basically paralyzed their own economy.  They’ve suffered billions of dollars in financial losses, and thereby brought transmission of this virus to a halt.”  Bravo, Laurie!

Daily, the moronic media has seen reporters standing at a border crossing talking about a country they have never visited and know nothing about.  Remember the avian flu?  China did not swiftly quarantine the source, as Mexico did, so there were far more than the swine flu’s 61 deaths.  Gracias, Mexico!   (By the way, why is the USA so cozy with socialist China while Cuba is off limits because it’s socialist?  Why can’t the U.S. government pass the common sense test?)

How about the misleading drug violence reporting?  Mainstream media have bungled this story as well.  If you are dealing drugs or hanging out along the border you might encounter violence, but the same is true everywhere in the world.  Ready for the real story?  Mexico is more peaceful than the USA in terms of drug-related gang violence.   Three times safer; 15,000 gang-related deaths occur in the USA each year.  Gang-related deaths in Mexico doubled from 2,500 in 2007 to 5,000 last year, when President Bush bribed President Calderon with $400 million in law enforcement aid to initiate armed violence with smugglers in the DEA’s tragic waste of money, “the war on drugs”.  It’s amazing how the media leave out essential facts such as these.  Sloppy research leads to biased reporting.  One casualty of sloppy reporting (and Bush’s sloppy policies) is Mexico’s tourism industry, to the tune of billions of dollars.

Despite such follies, Mexico’s economy is holding up admiraly under the strain of the world recession – another problem made in the USA.  Workers have been laid off in Mexican car factories recently, but this is the first taste of the financial crisis.  The IMF forecast is for a short and moderate drop in GDP for most Latin American economies, including Mexico.  Latin America maintains a current-account surplus and accumulated reserves, unlike Uncle Sam’s financial sector and government which has behaved more like a casino for a decade now.  (Actually, that statement is not fair to casinos; most generate a budget surplus.)

In summary, Mexico is safe, strong, and waiting with welcome arms for summer vacationers.  Remember, your holiday dollars go a long way in this warm and welcome culture.  And Mexico deserves the world’s gratitude for its incredible response to a medical emergency this spring.  Gracias, Mexico!  See you soon…

Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos

Sunday, May 10th, 2009
Mural from Todos Santos, Baja California Sur

Mural from Todos Santos, Baja California Sur

A Pueblo Mágico is a place where “symbolism, legend, history, important events and day-to-day life” have collided to create a unique result. “They are magic in their social and cultural manifestations, with great opportunities for tourism.” This is a good description from Mexico’s tourism agency, which is more than can be said about SECTUR’s website. Some things are the same everywhere. One constant is that government websites are not the most useful.

 

Especially if you are new to Mexico, tune into this program as you explore this dynamic and beautiful country. Not for the program itself; it is true… there are magical villages in Mexico. This travel journal presents the highlights of this program and its best destinations.

 

This program has resulted in substantial investment in most of its 34 designated gems since its inception in 2001, mainly in the areas of restoration and preservation. The most magical pueblos had already been inducted by 2006 when representatives from the earlier pueblos began to complain that the program was becoming less magical. By 2008 the program ended. The 14 pueblos selected in the last three years are not included here.

 

The first 20 Pueblos Mágicos are introduced below, presented in order of admission into the program. Travelers will notice an evolution from early inclusion based mainly on historical importance to pueblos with more contemporary social and cultural attributes.

 

Pueblos Mágicos

 

Mexcaltitán is a tiny island off the coast of Nayarit, rumored to be the birthplace of the Aztecs. The island is man-made, not tourist friendly, but important for cultural anthropologists.

 

Huasca de Ocampo is a beautiful village near one of Mexico’s highest cities, Pachuca, Hidalgo. It has more natural beauty than it has tourists, which is a plus in my book. It is a stunning visual feast due to a picturesque lake and biosphere reserve.

 

Real de Catorce is magical in more ways than one. This former silver mining town in San Luis Potosi is sublime. It attracts pilgrims from all over the world due to its architectural integrity and its history with rite-of-passage rituals involving peyote.

 

Tepoztlán is a mystical center and home to fabulous artisan markets. The setting in the mountains of Morelos makes it a popular destination. The town is as charming and it’s a great escape from Mexico City.

 

Taxco is Mexico’s famous source for silver jewelry. It’s perched on a Guerrero mountainside with cobblestone streets, magnificent colonial architecture, history, art, and very good tourist services.

 

Tepotzotlán is not the same pueblo as Tepoztlán above. This was a Jesuit center with an elaborate system of aqueducts. If you enjoy Christian history such as old convents and temples, you will enjoy this pleasant city in the state of Mexico.

 

Tapalpa is one of four Pueblos Mágicos in the state of Jalisco. It is a beautiful and peaceful rural sanctuary. The natural landscape surrounding this unspoiled alpine puebla features forest streams, and lakes resting in the shadows of volcanoes.

 

Comala is in Colima. Like Tapalpa, it has red tile roofs and stone streets. It is unusual in two respects. Most every building is whitewashed, and its cantinas feature substantial food, complements of the house. Fine craftsmen live here, and they are well fed.

 

Pátzcuaro is a stone city high in the mountains in Michoacan. It is bordered by pines and a beautiful lake. It is home to fisherman and craftsmen. Visit the island of Janitzio and watch the old men dance in the plaza.

 

Dolores Hidalgo is home to the Talavera ceramics famous throughout Mexico (and much of the world) and to more ice cream flavors than any place in Mexico. This town is the cradle of Mexican independence.

 

San Miguel de Allende is a favorite pueblo for expats including 10,000 from the USA alone. It all started with WWII vets attending art school on the GI Bill. Beautiful architecture and hot springs continue to inspire artists and retirees.

 

Cuetzalán in Puebla has a unique feel to it. It is isolated and rustic with red tile roofs, cobblestone streets and a glorious hillside setting. There is a waterfall and pyramids in the jungle outside town. This is a quintessential Mexican village with two fine hotels.

 

Izamal is a tiny yellow town in Yucatán state. Mayan buildings include a pyramid to a Sun God that is 2 acres at its base. This large Mayan city introduced unique architectural features such as carved stone blocks with rounded corners and projected moldings, built 750BC – 750AD.

 

Tequila is a delightful pueblo fueled by the drink of the same name. Dozens of distilleries operate tasting rooms, the central plaza is alive with music and revelers, and excellent food and lodging abounds. Its home, Jalisco, has more Pueblos Mágicos than any other state.

 

San Cristóbal de las Casas is a large city at 7000’ in Chiapas surrounded by wetlands and neighbor to the Mayan jewel Palenque. It is surrounded by lagoons, lakes, and canyons and Mayan villages. Its architectural styles are rich and varied colonial, baroque, & neoclassical.

 

Real del Monte is a mining boom town in Hidalgo where gold and silver were discovered before the Spanish Conquest. Cornish miners greatly influenced building styles and introduced futbol/soccer to Mexico. Charmingly narrow streets and stairways are well preserved.

 

Parras de la Fuente is two hours from Coahuila’s capital, Saltillo. It is home to the America’s first vineyard (1593) and many others. There are orchards of walnut, pecan, avocado, and fig. Spring-fed pools provide feed several resorts. The climate is ideal for agriculture.

 

Valle de Bravo is on Lake Avandaro where artists and cafes line the boardwalk. Visitors hire boats from the dock, paraglide, golf, or take horseback rides. Valle de Bravo is home to an amazing Day of the Dead celebration, the Festival of Souls.

 

Mazamitla is a 12th century village in Jalisco near the mountainous border with Michoacan. Here travelers find cabins in the woods, a Norwegian center, excellent restaurants, a quaint town center, Japanese gardens with waterfalls, and many other pleasant surprises.

 

Alamos is Sonora’s silver boom town and one-time capital. It is home to an impeccable town surrounding one the best town centers in Mexico, cobblestone streets, excellent dining and lodging. There is an ecological reserve outside of town. Alamos is popular with birders.

Monte Xanic in Mexico’s Napa Valley

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

Visiting Monte Xanic is a treat. No wine enthusiast visiting Baja California should miss this 200 acre vineyard in the Guadalupe Valley located 1300 feet above Ensenada, 10 miles from the Pacific coast. It is located near the town of Francisco Zarco. Here you will find amazing cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petite verdot, and syrah blends and varietals. There are also white wines. The sauvignon blanc is good, but the reds are world class.

This peninsula’s soil is dry. The sea breeze provides the moisture grapes seek. Such a stark contrast creates rugged and versatile reds with a character unique to the region. Here the growing conditions require that volume be sacrificed for quality. “Each vine is pruned to yield a limited number of grapes, but each one of these has a high concentration of flavors and aromas which will be revealed in the wine”, states Monte Xanic’s Karola Saenger.

The valleys of Baja California produce the vast majority of Mexico’s wines. Baja’s first vines were planted in 1701 by a Jesuit missionary assigned to the Loreto mission. In 1834 Dominican friars founded the Mission of Our Lady of Guadalupe of the North, which gave the valley its name.

Monte Xanic’s first vines were planted after 1904 by a Russian religious sect called “molokans” when 100 pacifist families settled here to avoid being drafted into the Czar’s armies. They produced wine in the Guadalupe Valley for eight decades before five wine enthusiasts founded Monte Xanic in 1987. The name Monte Xanic arose while contemplating the vineyards from the peak of the property during springtime. Monte is the Spanish word for hill and Xanic is a Cora Indian word describing “the flower that blooms after the first rains”.

The current winemaker and a co-partner is Hans Backhoff. Monte Xanic produces low volume and high quality, 50,000 cases of wine annually under four labels: Monte Xanic , Calixa Gran Ricardo, Vina Kristel and Calixa. There are other vineyards in Guadalupe Valley but Monte Xanic is the heart of Mexico’s Napa Valley. Prices typically range around US$30 but these are unforgettable wines.

This winery’s philosophy is to spare no expense in applying the best technology to the vineyards to obtain the highest quality possible in their wines. Monte Xanic does not seek to imitate wines from other regions; it seeks to express the personality of the vineyard, its “terra noir” – the characteristics imparted by the soil and climate of the region. These wines are excellent with Mexican food.

Gran Ricardo de Monte Xanic is one of the vineyard’s best, priced from $50. It is an earthy Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, and malbec aged in new French oak for twenty-four months and another two-to- four years in the bottle. This blend is produced in honor of Richard Hojel, founder and partner of Monte Xanic.

Organic in Mexico

Friday, February 6th, 2009

Worldwide, 77 million acres of land are certified organic. In Italy and many northern European countries, organic land represents roughly one-quarter of total farm land. (Source: IFOAM) On Feb. 20 Helga Willer of FiBL will present the latest figures on organic farming worldwide at the BioFach Congress 2009 in Germany.

In Latin America, Uruguay has the highest percentage of organic farm land – much of it in urban areas. Even their wool is certified organic. But Uruguay is not close enough to the USA to maintain a low carbon footprint for agricultural exports. Organic consumers are very interested in regionally produced foods.

This week I am visiting organic farmers in Mexico to discuss organizing a program to lift awareness among U.S. retailers regarding “Organic in Mexico”. Many organic exporters are close to large population centers in the USA. Climate, soil, and affordable farm labor are factors favorable to organic farmers south of the border. Virtually all of Mexico’s certified organics are exported.

In many areas of northern Mexico, certification is a fast track process because inspectors find zero residual fertilizer and insecticide levels in the soil. The reason is simple – farmers haven’t the money to spend on chemicals for their crops.

In 2000 Mexico placed 16th in the world and fifth in Latin America for organic land under production. Unfortunately, Argentina’s 3 million hectares certified organic includes unmanaged range land, so the statistic is misleading. “The value of organic production in 2000 was $150 million from Mexico, five times greater than Argentina’s, which puts Mexico second only to Brazil in total value of organic production in Latin America”, according to agriculture researcher Don Lotter from Davis, California.

Mexico’s domestic demand is still small; however, the value of organic production in Mexico is expanding at twice the rate of the USA’s. Coffee is Mexico’s largest organic crop. For organic coffee from Mexico, fresh roasted the day you order it, visit www.uniquecoffee.com – Seth Appell has been importing organic coffee for decades. Buying organic coffee from Latin America helps small rural growers more than most foods you can buy. “Over 50,000 small farmers, with an average holding of 2 hectares produce over two-thirds of organic production value in Mexico. Since it is far beyond the abilities of a producer of that size to seek individual certification, certification is done by farmer groups and cooperatives”, states Lotter.

I’ll be following in Mr. Lotter’s footsteps as I travel to Baja California to meet with growers this week. I’ll post field notes next week. I highly recommend Don’s field notes from 2004 focused on Del Cabo Cooperative, a 300-family project from our neighbor’s organic gardens to our community markets.

Tearing Down Fences in Cuba …and Beyond

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

President Obama took an early first step on his promise to close the Guantánamo Bay detention camp. On his first day in office he directed the military courts to halt prosecutions of all detainees held unlawfully by the Bush Administration, until a proper and legal prosecution can be mounted, where supported by the evidence.
President Obama is expected to issue an executive order on Jan. 22nd to close the detention camp. Some of the 240 detainees have been held for seven years without having charges filed against them. Some were detained as adolescents. Only 3 detainees have been convicted of crimes since 2001.
The White House draft of the executive order says closing the facility “would further the national security and foreign policy interests of the United States and the interests of justice, stating that the detention facilities at Guantánamo for shall be closed as soon as practicable, and no later than one year from the date of this order.” (Source: AP)
Unlike Mr. Bush, President Obama has a background in constitutional law. From this perspective, President Obama deems the Bush Administration’s special military prosecutions lacking in basic protections of the American legal and traditional military justice systems. Under existing laws, much of the evidence gathered from detainees is inadmissible due to the Bush administration’s practice of torture during interrogations, in violation of Geneva Conventions.
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Fidel Castro stated that Barack Obama “seems like a man who is absolutely sincere”, according to Argentina President Cristina Fernandez who met with him today in Havana. She added, “Fidel believes in Obama”.
President Obama’s actions this week begin to restore the USA’s reputation in Cuba, Latin America, and the world. In his inaugural address, he stated “we reject as false the choice between our safety and our ideals”.
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Sections of Mr. Bush’s fence along the USA/Mexico border may be the next to fall under President Obama’s ax. Construction was delayed last year in areas with sensitive habitat, and where land owners filed court appeals. Many miles of new fencing already divide communities that existed long before current political lines were drawn, and the border fence has been compared to the Berlin Wall by once-integrated binational border communities.
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The Bush administration ordered (but did not build) fencing over wetland habitat in the Lower Rio Grande Valley, “a proposed National Heritage Area”, according to Los Caminos del Rio Executive Director Eric Ellman. If the river valley is fenced as proposed by Mr. Bush, Texas will effectively cede a national treasure to Mexico.

Message from the Heart of the World

Friday, December 19th, 2008

Recent reports detail how Latin America is taking a leadership role on climate change. New data from the Word Bank quantifies this region’s leadership in reducing the level of greenhouse gases pumped into the atmosphere. Latin America’s efforts go beyond many government’s efforts, including most G-7 nations; and, notably, the world’s two largest emerging economies.

Carbon dioxide emissions in Latin America are 74% lower, per unit of power, than China & India’s emissions. Why? Hydroelectric power and bio fuel usage are two areas where Latin America has pioneered advantages. It is with enlightened self-interest that countries like Brazil and Mexico tackle environmental challenges. Brazil’s Amazon Basin and Mexico’s Gulf Coast are critical habitats threatened by global warming.

Such habitats are critical because their disappearance would trigger greater global warming. Already the conversion of Amazon rainforest habitat to farms represents 50% of Brazil’s total emissions. The world average for emissions from deforestation is 17%. New World Bank data predicts crop failures caused by global warming will cut farm revenue in half as soon as the year 2100.

Two other critical habitats in Latin America are the glaciers in Patagonia and the barrier reefs along C. America’s Caribbean coast. In Belize, the rising ocean temperature is causing coral in the world’s second largest reef system to emit algae that threaten the coral that produce them. Honduras is experiencing similar degradation off the coast of the Bay Islands.

The world’s most powerful economies are being invited by Latin American nations to lead developing economies on issues related to climate change. For now, Latin America is providing much needed leadership by way of example.

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Climate change warnings have been coming from Latin America for decades. . The Kogi sounded this alarm in 1990, long before Al Gore redefined the problem. Columbia’s Kogi civilization has avoided contact with industrialized society (much like the Amish). A typical Kogi village appears in the photo above. Like the Amish, the Kogi seek balance with nature.

The Kogi view themselves as “elder brothers” to modern man, having descended from the Tairona civilization which dates back to the 1st Century. They existed and thrived long before their lands were decimated by “younger brothers” of colonizing civilizations arriving in the region more than 1,000 years later. The Kogi see themselves as custodians of our planet and meditate on its future. They see climate change because their mountain is dying. Their mountain lies in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta near Columbia’s border with Venezuela, the highest coastal mountain in the world.

The Kogi do not see us as sleeping (as some Hindu and Oriental religions do); they see their little brothers as dead or dying, as “shadows of the energy of what they could be”, according to Drunvalo Melchizedek. This is because the Kogi have witnessed the destruction of mother Earth caused by industrialized cultures. The Kogi invited NPR to broadcast their message which translates as “Younger brother, you are killing our mother”.

The Bush Administration ignored the climate change alarm, while Latin American governments continued to take and recommend actions that will heal the ecology that sustain us. To learn more, see the BBC film “Message from the Heart of the World” by making a donation to the Tairona Heritage Trust. Also, read the book “The Heart of the World” for the story told by The Kogi Mamas (priests) to Alan Ereira.

Brazil & Mexico Emerging on Global Issues of Climate & Economic Growth

Sunday, December 14th, 2008

The President of Brazil recently proposed a framework for establishing new global financial systems in the face of global failures by the G-7 industrialized nations. He presented this proposal at last month’s G-20 summit. President Lula wants to see the G-7 expanded to include Brazil, the world’s 10th largest economy, along with Mexico and other developing nations.

Brazil is also requesting greater say with the International Monetary Fund and World Bank. “Brazilians view the current economic crisis as an opportunity” according to Brazil expert Jeffery Carson. They want to see Brazil “in a leadership position on behalf of poor countries. Brazil has a strong fiscal standing with $200 billion in foreign reserves to address the global meltdown.

After towing the line with IMF guidelines for decades, many Latin American economies are at least as solid as the USA’s nose diving economy. In addition to fiscal strength, Latin American countries are important producers feeding much of world demand for food and fuel.

Brazil is the world’s #1 exporter of orange juice, bio fuels, poultry, beef and coffee. It produces more iron ore than the USA and is fast approaching our levels of grain exports. Mexico is the fruit and vegetable basket of the USA. Venezuela is the world’s #5 oil exporter with a proposal to create an alternative to the World Bank.

Brazil also wants more influence within the United Nations. President Lula is quick to point out that it has one of the world’s largest stable democracies.

Mexico has recently taken a global warming leadership role with a plan to cut greenhouse gas emission levels in half by 2050, making it the only developing country to set emissions caps below existing levels. The plan is intended as a wakeup call to the G-7 and includes emissions limits on its main polluting industries which produce cement and electricity and refine oil. Companies will be able to sell unused emission allowances.

Rich industrial countries are facing growing criticism for damaging international financial markets and the environment through their unwillingness to address the interwoven nature of the global economy and ecosystems that draw their own borders. Brazil and Mexico won praise at recent UN talks in Poland attended by 145 environment ministers. Meanwhile, the USA and UK remain focused on their financial catastrophes with the notable exception of California.

California just adopted the USA’s most comprehensive climate plan. Gov. Schwarzenegger believes “these regulations will spur the state’s economy and serve as a model for the rest of country. When you look at today’s depressed economy, green tech is one of the bright spots out there, which is yet another reason we should move forward on our environmental goals.” California’s cap and trade system is similar to Mexico’s in that it provides companies financial incentives for reducing carbon emissions.

President Bush circumvented California’s tough 2006 restrictions on auto pollution by blocking the law from taking effect, but California officials trust that President-Elect Obama will remove this obstacle to clean air and growth in the state’s green economy industries. According to environmental ministers to the UN, “the attitude of rich countries borders on the immoral and is counterproductive”.

Brazil and Mexico are seeking a larger role in convincing an expanded G-7 that they can aid ailing international markets and reduce havoc from carbon emissions. The UN Secretary-General urged leading economies to provided real leadership on these two issues by answering the calls of emerging economies. He stating in Poland, “The economic crisis is serious; yet when it comes to climate change, the stakes are far higher.”

Mexico’s Hotel Santa Fe in Puerto Escondido

Sunday, November 23rd, 2008

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My favorite hotels in Mexico have that authentic Mexican ambiance found no where else in the world. You can enjoy French and Italian-inspired hotels in Mexico, but vice-versa? Sure, there are German towns in S. America. Where in the world can you find that wonderful Mexican “onda“? (Spanish slang for “vibe”, onda literally means wave or ripple and “la onda” means “tune in”.)

There is nothing more liberating than a week on the beach in a genuine Mexican hotel in a bona fide Mexican town with a perfect tropical climate, handmade margaritas, surfers gracefully riding great waves, and hippie expats mixing with long-time locals. Now I’m going to share one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets, an act typically reserved for clients of “Changes in Latitude”.

Puerto Escondido is home to one of the most extraordinary hotels I’ve discovered in Mexico. Should you ever find time to experience this bohemian surfer’s paradise, stay at Hotel Santa Fe. The Presidential Suites are amazing if you really want to splurge, but the Master Suites are also fabulous. The restaurant is a vegetarian’s dream, the grounds a lush paradise, and the hospitality is impressive even by Mexico’s high service standards.

The hotel was founded 25 years ago by Robin Cleaver and his wife and friends. Robin’s parents had retired in Guadalajara in the 60′s and he discovered then-tiny Puerto Escondido while vagabonding about Mexico. The town has grown to 50,000 friendly residents but the costa chica onda remains. Indigenous Zapotecs and Mixtecs continue to live in the area … in much the same manner as they lived 2,500 years ago, trading village-to-village, living off the land and the sea. Be sure to visit the villages neighboring Puerto Escondido on market day.

Puerto Escondido is a quintessential Mexican village ideally situated on a protected bay along Oaxaca’s Pacific coast. It is home to coffee farms and fishermen. You can connect to a direct flight from D.F. to avoid the occasional political turmoil in Oaxaca City but allow 2 hours for your layover. While there, be sure to visit the Living Museum of Sea Turtles on Mazunte Beach. For news about forever peaceful Puerto Escondido, read the fabulous local web magazine El Sol de la Costa. Click here to learn more about Hotel Santa Fe.